London’s dining scene just got a little more exciting with the opening of Café François, a lively, multi-floored bistro located near the bustling Borough Market. While its older sibling, Maison François in St. James’, has long been synonymous with refined French dining, Café François brings a fresh, playful energy to the table, offering a more laid-back yet equally delicious experience. Having recently visited for a birthday lunch, I can confidently say this new spot is one to watch.
The Setting: Chic, Casual, and Inviting
Located in a former Paul Smith store on Stoney Street, Café François boasts an expansive, easy-to-find location with large glowing signage that makes it stand out. The building’s industrial brick facade adds a touch of rustic charm, while the small outdoor terrace (though better suited for summer) draws in diners even during chillier months. Inside, the vibe is decidedly relaxed, with no formal table settings or dessert trolleys, unlike its more sophisticated counterpart, Maison François. Instead, there’s a glass-fronted dessert kiosk that beckons you with an array of ornate patisserie creations—think Paris-Brests and other delightful French treats.
Café François feels like a vibrant all-day canteen, welcoming you for everything from pain Suisse and coffee at 7 am to escargots and gimlets by late morning. The buzzing energy of Borough Market spills over into this bistro, creating a space that feels bustling yet polished.
The Menu: Playful Classics with a Twist
Café François doesn’t shy away from French classics, but here they come with a playful twist. The croque monsieur, for instance, is a familiar French favorite—a cheesy, ham-filled sandwich—but here, it’s made with a flatbread base and is served with either moules marinière or lamb merguez for added flair. It’s comforting yet inventive, showing off the kitchen’s creativity while staying true to its roots.
For something a little more adventurous, the frogs’ legs—battered, deep-fried, and served with a tangy sauce ravigote—are not for the faint-hearted. Presented as pairs of splayed legs, these are as “froggy” as it gets, and my dining companion gleefully devoured three pairs with a grin that could only be described as Roald Dahl-esque. Whether you’re a fan of this classic French dish or simply curious, Café François serves them up with confidence and finesse.
Starters: Anchovies, Brioche, and Celery Done Right
We began our meal with a standout dish of fat anchovies on brioche, spread generously with a thick layer of Café de Paris butter. This herby, pistachio-colored spread elevated the dish, adding richness to the salty anchovies. Paired with a side of celeriac rémoulade, which was like a coleslaw with grand ambitions, the starters were a perfect balance of earthiness and mustardy zest. The caperberries on top added a bright, briny punch that rounded out the flavors beautifully.
Mains: Steak Tartare and Monkfish to Remember
When it came to the mains, Café François delivered yet again. The steak tartare was served in a hearty portion, packed with herbs, though not chopped tableside, as one might expect in more traditional French restaurants. Still, it was a delicious and elegant rendition of the dish. However, the true star of the meal was the vadouvan monkfish, a new favorite of mine. The large, perfectly cooked pieces of monkfish were bathed in a rich, flavorful curry sauce, topped with plump mussels. Eating the mussels without getting splattered in the vibrant orange sauce was a challenge I failed spectacularly, but it was well worth the potential dry-cleaning bill.
A Perfect Spot for All-Day Dining
Whether you’re in the mood for a casual brunch or a celebratory dinner, Café François has something to offer. Its all-day dining menu includes sharing platters of lobster, whole roast chicken, or prime rib, paired with a well-curated international wine list. It’s the kind of place where you can pop in for a light bite or settle in for a long, leisurely meal with friends or family. The food is comforting, the atmosphere is lively, and the service is warm and attentive.
Not Your Average Bistro
While Café François may share its French heritage with chains like Café Rouge or Côte Brasserie, it’s far from ordinary. The attention to detail, from the fabulous tiling in the loos to the rich flavors in every dish, sets it apart. In just a few short days since its opening, it has already become a rendezvous point for locals and tourists alike, thanks to its prime location and irresistible charm.
Final Thoughts
Café François may have only been open for a few days, but it’s already proving to be a must-visit destination near Borough Market. With its playful take on French classics, inviting atmosphere, and dedication to quality, it’s sure to become a favorite spot for Londoners looking for something a little different. Whether you’re a fan of frogs’ legs, a lover of steak tartare, or just in search of a great croque monsieur, this bistro has something for everyone. It’s the perfect place for a relaxed meal, where French flair meets casual elegance, and I, for one, will be back.
